There are indeed many things the Tiv people of Nigeria take pride in. However, if there is one thing the Tiv people are particularly renowned for, it would be their distinctive black and white woven textiles. These fabrics, known locally as A’nger, serve as symbols of identity, heritage, and resilience.
The Tiv people predominantly reside in Benue State, and as an agrarian society, they have always relied on farming for sustenance and economic stability. These textiles are typically handwoven on horizontal looms, using threads dyed in deep black and stark white to create striking striped patterns. The cotton used is sourced locally, and occasionally it is hand-spun. In recent times, most modern weavers rely on factory-spun yarn. This process is usually labor-intensive. Traditionally, though, weaving has always been a male occupation in Tiv culture, unlike many other African societies where women are the primary weavers. Boys learn the art from older male relatives, continuing a lineage of craftsmanship that is both technical and spiritual. The fabric itself is imbued with cultural meanings and is integral to many aspects of Tiv life, from daily wear to ceremonial regalia.
The black and white stripe pattern forms the hallmark of the Tiv fabric, which is meticulously crafted to ensure uniformity and boldness. Some weavers add narrow colored lines or create intricate motifs within the stripes, but the classic black and white design remains the most culturally significant.
The simple texture of the A’nger cloth belies its symbolic depth. Black stands for the earth, hardship, and resilience, while white represents purity, peace, and life. This symbolism becomes particularly powerful in ceremonial contexts, where the cloth serves as a visual expression of the community’s values and collective memory. In everyday life, Tiv people may wear simpler versions of the fabric, such as wrappers, tunics, or head wraps, because of the comfort and durability they offer. It is also incorporated into contemporary designs like shirts, skirts, and accessories.
The Tiv people thrive in resilience. The enduring presence of A’nger weaving in both local and diasporic communities reflects a commitment to cultural continuity and self-determination. While many traditional practices in Nigeria have gone down the drain due to urbanization, Tiv textile weaving has found new life through cultural festivals, art exhibitions, and the fashion industry. In fact, during weddings, both the bride and groom may wear garments made from A’nger cloth, signifying their oneness. In funerals, the cloth is worn to honor the deceased, emphasizing a life lived by Tiv values. Chiefs and elders often wear more elaborately styled A’nger fabrics during festivals and public appearances, highlighting their status and leadership within the community. Tiv dancers also don the black and white striped cloth during performances, often pairing it with traditional beads, raffia skirts, or animal hides to create a visually dynamic presentation. These performances serve as a canvas for historical and moral narratives.
It would be impossible, though, to mention the Tiv textile weaving without acknowledging the Tiv’s strong agricultural background. Historically, cotton was cultivated alongside food crops, and the dyeing process often used natural extracts from plants and tree bark. Although industrialization has introduced synthetic alternatives, some traditional weavers still maintain organic methods, reflecting a sustainable approach that aligns with their agrarian values.
This synergy between farming and weaving reinforces the idea that textiles are not isolated artifacts but integrated expressions of Tiv life. The land provides the raw materials, the people contribute the labor and artistry, and the finished cloth becomes a symbol of unity, identity, and heritage.
